Dieselpumpa lekker

[Mr. Nygård]

Hmmm.

 

Tror det kommer ut noe diesel på toppen av dieselpumpa der disse "mangetakkede" skruene sitter (se bilde).

 

Er det noe pakninger e.l. som sitter under der ? Bilen er forøvrig den velkjente -91 300 TDT

 

 

 

[vedlegget ble slettet av en administrator.]

[Arne Henriksen]

Jepp - det er der. Det er ingen gøy jobb å skifte dem ut fra det jeg har hørt - bl.a er det en hel prosedyre å stramme til igjen for å ikke trekke pumpa skjev.

 

Gjorde et søk i mailboksen min og fant denne, dette gjaldt tydeligvis en 606 men jeg vil tro metoden er veldig lik.

 

Engelsk navn er 'delivery valve' .

 

 

 

-----------------------

[MBZ] W210.025/OM606.962 delivery valves (finished!) -- HOWTO Fri 20.01.2006 17:50 EST

A few weeks ago I was asking about this job... I finished it, and it

wasn't that bad (I'm kicking myself for not taking photos though!)

 

It took me less than four hours for this job and that included running out

to get the T-40. The 4 hours that the labor guide quotes is generous,

certainly... If anyone has any thoughts/comments on this, lemme know.

 

 

 

Parts:

7x 603 078 01 41 (Injection pipe clips)

7x 601 078 26 41 (Injection pipe shims--trim them on one side)

2x 601 078 26 41 (Injection pipe clips)

1x 606 141 01 80 (Intake manifold gasket)

 

6x 017 997 41 48 (Bosch 1-460-210-321 O-ring, you may want spares)

6x 004 997 45 40 (Bosch 1-410-105-021 Copper seal washer)

(These are the same rings as used on a 602 or 603 engine.)

 

Tools:

-8mm socket or nutrunner

-10mm socket

-6mm hex bit socket

-T-30 socket

-T-40 socket

-13mm *special* crowsfoot 000 589 77 03 00

-32/33 spline *special* socket 617 589 01 09 00

-a dental pick or similar to aid in removal of seal rings and washers

-some sort of zero residue aerosol cleaner (carb cleaner or electronics

cleaner)

-Torque wrenches capable of 10Nm -> 35Nm

-A box of rags (like the ones they sell at home depot, "Scott" Brand)

misc extensions and ratchets and adapters (3/8-1/2 bushing, 3/8-1/4

reducer)

-a can of clean oil (I used clear fine machine oil) or diesel fuel

 

Instructions:

-The first thing you want to do is jack the car up and remove at least the

middle underpan (8mm hex head 4 places)

 

-You will need to remove the bolt fastening the charge air cooler pipe to

the EGR valve on the bottom of the intake manifold (Mine was missing!) as

well as the clamp holding the EGR tube to the manifold/EGR valve (10mm

bolt).

 

-Put the car back down on the ground and remove the plastic oversheild on

the valve cover (6mm hex bit, 8 screws)

 

-Now is a good time to clean all the accumulated gunk off the top of the

engine while everything is still closed up.

 

-Remove the two 10mm bolts secureing the oil separator to the top of the

engine (over #5 injector) and carefully remove the separator and breather

tube. (You might want to stick a bit of rag into the open tube ends on the

engine)

 

-Remove the T-40 head manifold bolts (14 places, I think).  There is one

hiding under the lifting eye back by #5 or #6.

 

-Gently lift the manifold free, disconnecting the vacuum control line and

the boost pressure sensing line from the valve.  Be cautious of the little

plastic clamp on the boost line.  You may want to fill the manifold with

some cleaner to let it soak while you work

 

-Carefully slide the intake manifold gasket out (to the front of the

engine), noting its orientation.

 

-Stuff CLEAN lint-free rags into each intake ports and the intercooler

pipe to keep crud out of them.

 

-Clean off the top of the injection pump (carb cleaner, etc).

 

-Make a diagram of where the injection lines go, and more importantly, how

the various clips attach to them.  Take note of how the first two lines

run around the low pressure fuel and injection bypass hoses.

 

-Remove all of the clips from the injection lines. 80% or more will

likely break.

 

-Loosen the injection line nuts and remove the injection lines. The

special crowsfoot (13mm) above really makes it much easier on the engine

side.

 

-Remove the three T-30 screws that secure the delivery valve lock rings to

the injection pump.  Take note of how the lock rings are laying on the

pump.

 

-Remove all of the lock rings.

 

-Clean the top of the IP again--pay special attention to around the

delivery valves.

 

***

 

-Using the special spline socket, loosen the first delivery

valve holder.  Unscrew it by hand and SLOWLY lift the valve holder, being

careful to not let the spring get lost/drop out or pull the valve from

inside the pump.

 

-Use the (CLEAN) pick to remove the copper seal ring from the top of the

assembly that was under the valve holder.

 

-Carefully lower a new copper seal ring onto the assembly. Try to keep the

ring and assembly more or less centered within the bore

 

-Remove the O-ring from the outside of the valve holder.  Use carb cleaner

or similar to clean all the crud off the outside of the body (don't flush

it inside!)

 

-Fit a new O-Ring onto the delivery valve body. Put a few drops of oin on

the threads of the valve and on each side of the O-Ring, ensuring that the

ring is well-oiled.

 

-Thread the delivery valve body into the IP by hand, being cautious of the

valve assembly and the spring.  (The spring should seat on top of the

valve assembly into the pump), and the O-ring should not be pinched.

 

-Using a torque wrench and the spline socket, torque the delivery valve

holder to 30Nm (22 ft-lb).

 

-Loosen the valve body maybe 1/8 turn (just enough to remove the

torque/pressure) and re-torque to 30Nm/22ft-lbs.

 

-Repeat the above step (This makes 3x torquing to 30Nm/22ft-lbs)

 

-Torque an additional 5Nm/4ft-lbs (This makes 35Nm/26ft-lbs in 2 stages)

 

-Repeat the above ten steps (from the *** mark) for the remaining delivery

valves.  If any don't look right or feel right, or you just aren't sure if

it's right, remove it, inspect the O-ring for pinches/tears and do it

over.  It's easy to do right now.

 

-After finishing all the valves, replace the lock rings, I think a decent

order to place the on is: 1-3-2-5-4-6, making sure that the holes all line

up for the retaining screws.

 

-Reinstall the retaining screws (T-30), making sure to "pre-load" the lock

rings to prevent loosening of the valve holders).  Torque to

10Nm/7ft-lbs.

 

-Remove all of the rubber shims from the injection line brackets.  Use one

of the old shims as a pattern to trim the new ones before installing the

new shims.

 

-Replace the injection lines.  Where the pipes run together in pairs, the

odd number cylinder one should lay on top.  Do not tighten the nuts yet. 

Make sure that the low pressure fuel lines and bypass hose is routed

properly.

 

-Install all of the new clips (easier said than done, but a straight

screwdriver and a rubber mallet make it a little easier the install them).

 

-Torque all of the injection line nuts to 23Nm/17ft-lbs.

 

-Remove the rag bits for the oil separator and reinstall-Torque to

10Nm/7ft-lbs.

 

-You may want to clean the top of the engine a bit more here....

 

-Remove the rag bits from the intake ports and clean the gasket mating

surface. Ensure that no bits of rag tor off in the ports, etc.

 

-Slide in the new manifold gasket, making sure to place it in the same

orientation as the old gasket.

 

-Remove the rag from the intercooler pipe and gently lower the manifold

back into place.  It is easier to reattach the vacuum and pressure lines

before bolting in the manifold.

 

-Ensure the manifold, gasket, and head are all properly aligned. Using a

bolt near each end usually helps keep things in place.

 

-Reinstall all of the 14 T-40 manifold bolts, giving each one a light

coating of anti-sieze lubricant.  After all are installed, torque them to

20Nm/14-15ft-lbs, double checking the torques after all are torqued.

 

-Reinstall the EGR tube clamp, it is possible to place it so the bolt is

accessible from above/beside the manifold.

 

-Clean the top of the engine (the injection pipe nuts especially) and the

top of the injection pump with a quick-drying spray solvent, so we can see

any leaks more readily.

 

-Jack the car again and reinstall the intercooler pipe to EGR bolt (torque

to 20Nm/14-15ft-lbs).

 

-Reinstall the underpans.

 

-Lower the car.

 

-To bleed the injection lines, depress the accelerator to the floor while

holding the key in the start position.  After 40 seconds, stop, and let

the starter cool for 5 minutes or so.  Repeat until the car starts and

runs.  Run the car (1200rpm or so) until it smooths out (this will make

sure that all the air is out of the lines.)  It will sound like crap for

5 minutes or so.

 

-Let the car run for several minutes and check for fuel leaks at the top

of the injection pump and around the injection pipe nuts.  Hopefully,

there are no leaks.

 

-Reinstall the valve cover overshield, torquing the 8 bolts to

10Nm/7ft-lbs.

 

-Close the hood and clean up!

 

-Attempt to convince your spouse that you can now afford some expensive

new toy with the money (probably close to $450 after allowing for the two

special sockets) that you just saved! (Let me know how well you fare in

that endeavour!)

[Arne Henriksen]

Fant en annen litt mer to the point som ihvertfall gjelder 603:

===========================================

> If you have leaks from the pipe connections on the injection pump

> (not real uncommon on '84-'87 OM60x injection pumps), you will need to

> replaced NOT the delivery valve seal (metal seal) but the "O" ring that

> seals the pipe fitting into the pump (you CAN of course replace the

> delivery valve seal at the same time to assure that it IS okay). This is

> NOT for the light or even medium DIYer in MY opinion. Just a little

> miscalculation could result in destroying the injection pump.

>

> To remove the pipe fitting you will need the 20+ point splined socket

> and remove the keepers, and a torque wrench to reseal the fittings. You

> may need to remove the intake manifold (if you remove the intake

> manifold, be sure that you replace all of the glow plugs as it's a

> BREEZE with the manifold off).

>

> You will need the half dozen "O" rings (MB may not supply these - you

> may need to get them from Bosch) and some spares (as ruining a few is

> commonplace) and as they are replaced, each fitting is torqued to 30 Nm,

> then released and torque to 30 Nm again and released and then to 30 Nm

> again and then another 5 Nm. If done perfectly, the pump will work fine.

> If not done perfectly (even pros mess up 20-30% of the time, I'm told),

> the pump will be distorted and will make a racket and the engine will

> idle roughly. The offending fitting will then need to be loosened and

> then be retightened again according to the above instructions. 

>

> Marshall

[Alexander]

Snodig. De fikset en slik lekkasje på 94 E300TDTen muttern hadde for 200 kroner på Hasle bil på Kløfta.

[Arne Henriksen]

Snodig. De fikset en slik lekkasje på 94 E300TDTen muttern hadde for 200 kroner på Hasle bil på Kløfta.

Det kan jo naturligvis være innsprøytningsrøret som lekker - det kunne høres ut som en 200kronersjobb. Om det bare tighta den litt...

[Olav]

Snodig. De fikset en slik lekkasje på 94 E300TDTen muttern hadde for 200 kroner på Hasle bil på Kløfta.

 

Ja, men så har de mange gode håndverkere på Kløfta også da?

[Alexander]

Snodig. De fikset en slik lekkasje på 94 E300TDTen muttern hadde for 200 kroner på Hasle bil på Kløfta.

Det kan jo naturligvis være innsprøytningsrøret som lekker - det kunne høres ut som en 200kronersjobb. Om det bare tighta den litt...

 

Nei, han bytta noen pakninger sa mutter. Umulig å vite hva som ble gjort siden det var mora mi som ordna alt. Ingen tvil om at det ble gjort en enklere jobb en det som er beskrevet her.

[Arne Henriksen]

Snodig. De fikset en slik lekkasje på 94 E300TDTen muttern hadde for 200 kroner på Hasle bil på Kløfta.

Det kan jo naturligvis være innsprøytningsrøret som lekker - det kunne høres ut som en 200kronersjobb. Om det bare tighta den litt...

 

Nei, han bytta noen pakninger sa mutter. Umulig å vite hva som ble gjort siden det var mora mi som ordna alt. Ingen tvil om at det ble gjort en enklere jobb en det som er beskrevet her.

Joa. Det kan jo hende de bare skrudde løs den som var lekk, putta i ny simmering og tighta til. Og hadde flaks!?

Det som jeg limte inn med 30nm, 30nm,30nm + 5nm er MB/Bosch sin dokumenterte løsning...

 

Anyhow trodde jeg ikke en bilmekaniker dro fram verktøykassen sin for 200kr. 

[Alexander]

Anyhow trodde jeg ikke en bilmekaniker dro fram verktøykassen sin for 200kr.   

 

Tror ikke de er så nøye på det på det verkstedet der... 

Jeg husker muttern sa at han hadde fiksa mange sånne lekkasjer og at det var en enkel jobb. Må jo ha hatt flaks etter disse arbeidsbeskrivelsene å dømme.

[Jan H.]

Hei: Har nettopp fått skiftet O-ringene, Kopperpakningene og trøkkventilene til alle seks. En ganske grei jobb egentlig. Det som er vktig er at man er veldig nøye med renholdet at det ikke kommer noe dritt ned i pumpa da kan dyse spissene bli ødelagt (Dette skjedde med ei dyse hos meg.). når O-ringene monteres bør de smøres med fett så de ikke river seg da har du likefult lekasje igjen.

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